For the next part of my ‘Photoshop for beginners’ series, I thought I’d take a look at the two most basic (and most used) PS adjustments; levels and curves. Most photo-editing software has these two adjustment tabs somewhere within their interface, so you can follow along with this tutorial even if you don’t have photoshop itself 🙂
Also, this isn’t going to be a completely in-depth of every single aspect of levels and curves; it’s meant to be more of a practical overview to help get you on your way. If you’re looking for an in-depth technical explanation of how each little aspect actually works, you’re better off doing some research into professional photography books and magazines.
In my last post, we talked lots about White Balance, and towards the end there I mentioned a nifty little program called CameraRaw and one of its best features – the ability to edit in batch. This means you can edit literally dozens of images at once; well, more specifically, you can edit one photograph and then apply all the adjustments to multiple others. This ensures consistency in your work, but also saves a great deal of time and effort!
Since my last couple of posts have talked a lot about White Balance without going in to any great detail, I thought I’d make the second part of ‘Photoshop for Beginners’ about White Balance and, more specifically, how to correct it. I won’t be talking about how to manually control the WB in-camera, as there are plenty of other tutorials on how to do this; instead, I’ll be teaching you how to correct the WB when your camera gets it wrong, and one quick cheat to get perfect WB every single time.
So, that last post about file formats was incredibly long winded and quite boring, so I decided to simplify it for those of you who’d rather note wade through all that information. Here I present to you Keeping your Photographs RAW, Abridged; a list of the top 4 reasons to shoot in RAW and, just to be fair, the top 4 reasons not to.
TOP 4 Reasons to Shoot in RAW
For my very first post in my ‘Photoshop for Beginners’ series, I thought I’d take a few minutes to quickly explain the different file types that you will come across in photography, and which ones are the most useful for your purposes. For the record, I’m going to try and make this as short and simple as possible, as I do recognise the file types are a pretty boring subject for most people; they do, however, make a fairly big difference when it comes to photography, so it’s useful to have a little bit of general knowledge on the topic. If, however, you’re a photography expert or a bit of a computer nut, you won’t learn anything knew from this post – and you may even roll your eyes at my over-simplified explanations; this post is for beginners only!
Designing jewellery that looks good and feels great to wear is already a challenge; photographing your jewellery in a way that looks fetching and shows off your piece spectacularly is even more so!
We all know that photographing your jewellery to display online and in print is one of the best ways to self-publicise and sell your work, but editing these photographs and preparing them for print can sometimes be a daunting task for a beginner.
Luckily for you, help is at hand! I always intended for a major feature of this blog to be the tutorials I create, and decided to create a series explaining all the best ways to edit and refine your photographs before revealing them to the world at large.
One problem with this plan, however, is that photo editing requires software which can sometimes be rather expensive; I myself use and plan to teach Photoshop CS6, but what about those of you who can’t afford the several hundred pounds it takes to purchase such software?